New Zealand Roadtrip Oct 31 - Nov 11, 2024 15 min read

New Zealand South Island: Where Roads Unfold Like Poetry

From the moment we stepped off the plane in Christchurch, the South Island welcomed us like a hand-painted canvas—gardens in bloom, homes with soul, and skies that whispered freedom. It felt like nature had slowed down just enough to let us catch our breath.

Our road trip carved its way through moody coastlines and misty peaks. We wandered the quirky steepness of Baldwin Street in Dunedin and soaked in the quiet calm of Te Anau, where the lake mirrored towering snowcapped giants. The Milford Sound cruise was our eighth-wonder moment—coffee in hand, dolphins dancing, waterfalls thundering around us, and not a single care beyond the horizon.

Day 1
Touchdown in Christchurch – A City Straight Out of a Painting

After a long journey, we finally landed in Christchurch at 6 PM, greeted by a breathtaking landscape that looked like it had been plucked straight from a painting. As we made our way to the baggage claim, the sheer beauty of the city left us in awe.

With heavy luggage and travel fatigue setting in, we grabbed some information pamphlets to get a sense of the city and booked an Uber to reach our accommodation—Sandy Feet Lodge. However, our first adventure in New Zealand came sooner than expected! On the way, our Uber got into a minor accident, with the other car’s mirror breaking. I was too busy admiring the charming homes with their lush gardens to figure out whose fault it was.

Upon arrival, we lugged our familiar travel companions—one heavy blue suitcase, a lighter black one, and our two trusty backpacks—up the stairs and into what would be our little sanctuary for the night. With only a microwave and kettle available, we made ourselves a simple meal—tea and pasta—before repacking our luggage strategically.

We decided to keep our blue suitcase in the trunk, packing three days’ worth of clothes in the black suitcase, snacks and food in one backpack, and all handy essentials like caps, chargers, and toiletries in the other backpack. This system worked well, as the backseat of our car would soon be occupied by another suitcase.

With an early start ahead—our car pickup scheduled for 8 AM—we called it a night, excited for the road trip that awaited us.

Day 2
Road Trip to Dunedin – A Journey Through Scenic Wonders

total distance covered = 360 km; total time taken = 4 hr 30 mins

With an early start at 8 AM, we took an Uber to Omega Rental to pick up our car—a Toyota Aqua Hybrid. Adjusting to the hybrid system took Harshit a moment, but soon enough, we were on our way to Dunedin, embarking on one of the most scenic routes in New Zealand.

The route—stretching from Christchurch to Dunedin and further through Bluff and Invercargill to Te Anau—is easily one of the most scenic stretches in all of New Zealand. Endless coastlines, rolling hills, and sun-drenched skies made every kilometer feel like a postcard coming to life. One mobile was mounted on a small handheld tripod, ready to capture fleeting moments. Our journey was fueled not just by wanderlust, but meticulous planning. Before even boarding our flight from India, we had mapped each day’s route on Google Maps—pinning every scenic lookout and hidden gem. That preparation became our lifeline; as the miles piled on and fatigue crept in, our mapped-out plans kept us steady and on course.

Stops Along the Way

Moeraki Boulders and penguin colony waddling on South Island beach
Moeraki Boulders and visit to Penguin colony
Fresh hot pizza lunch by the shoreline next to penguin colony
Waiting for pizza by the shore

Most days on this trip followed a familiar rhythm. We’d wake up, freshen up, and munch on protein bars or snacks to kick things off. Lunch usually meant grabbing a pizza somewhere affordable—simple, tasty, and easy on the wallet. Come evening, we’d wind down by cooking rice or a ready-to-eat MTR meal wherever we were staying. It wasn’t glamorous, but it worked—and gave our days a comforting kind of flow.

Exploring Dunedin

Upon reaching Dunedin, the drizzle welcomed us, but that didn’t stop us from exploring:

Steep incline of Baldwin Street, Lilliput Library, and misty castle roads
Baldwin street, Lilliput library and view from the Larnach Castle road

Before heading to our apartment, I looked for supermarkets to substitute our usual Dmart. We discovered Pak’nSave, The Warehouse, Four Square, and Woolworths. Another quiet ritual took root during our travels—visiting at least one local supermarket in every city we stayed in. It all began in Dunedin, sparked by a wave of tiredness and the simple craving for pav bhaji. We figured we’d just grab some bread, but Pak’nSave’s tempting aisles had other plans. Bigger than Dmart, and—according to Harshit—the only place left to match now was Walmart. We walked out with Coke, snacks, and enough groceries to last the next leg of the trip. One cool thing about shopping in New Zealand? Their products come with health ratings, making it easier to pick between brands.

Shopping at the massive Pak'nSave supermarket in Dunedin
Dunedin's Walmart

Our apartment had a unique layout—kitchen, hall, and bathroom downstairs, while rooms were upstairs. The bathtub was a nice touch, though the room heater wasn’t great, but exhaustion made it irrelevant. We cooked pav bhaji, turned on the hot AC, and relaxed on the sofa, wrapping up another incredible day.

What I loved most about our holiday rhythm was how naturally it steered us away from screens. Early mornings, early nights, and barely any scrolling. With sunsets painting the sky around 8 p.m., we’d usually be home by 9 or 9:30 and fast asleep not long after. That kind of peace? Unmatched.

Day 3
A Journey Through Bluff & Invercargill to Te Anau

total distance covered = 408 km; total time taken = 5 hr 5 mins

With a long day ahead, we started early—though Harshit managed to sneak in some bathtub time before we hit the road at 8:30 AM. Armed with protein snacks, we embarked on another scenic drive, heading towards Te Anau, a breathtaking village nestled near Fiordland National Park.

Stops Along the Way

Iconic yellow signposts at Stirling Point in Bluff under rainy skies
Stirling Point (southernmost point of South Island)

After lunch, we continued our journey to Te Anau, cruising along New Zealand’s scenic Highway 95. What we didn’t realize then was that this stretch of road would quietly rewrite our definition of beauty—our neural networks forever recalibrated by the sheer magic of the views.

When we reached Te Anau, it felt like stepping into a dream. On one side of the road stood our hostel; on the other, an endless lake framed by towering, cloud-kissed mountains. A seaplane rested near the shore like it, too, was pausing to take in the view. We checked in and were delighted to find a glass wall in our room—those mountains now felt like quiet guests, keeping us company.

Quiet seaplane resting on calm Lake Te Anau with massive mountains behind
Seaplanes resting on Te anau lake and Fiordland mountains

After nearly eight hours on the road, we were understandably worn out. But a warm meal with a view helped recharge us. Te Anau, more a charming village than a bustling town, invited us to slow down. After dinner, we wandered through its scenic paths, soaking in the peace. We capped off the evening with ice cream in hand and contentment in our hearts, before heading back to prepare for one of the most anticipated parts of the trip tomorrow: Milford Sound — a 2-hour drive from Te Anau. We repacked our blue bag for the next three days, hoping to catch a glimpse of the Southern Lights. Unfortunately, the sky wasn’t clear that night, so we called it a day, ready for an early 6 AM start.

Day 4
Milford Sound & Arrival in Queenstown

total distance covered = 403 km; total time taken = 5 hr 26 mins

The day we’d been waiting for—Milford Sound. Our cruise was set for 9:45 a.m., so we planned to leave by 6:30 to give ourselves time to find free parking and walk to the terminal. The alarm rang at 5 a.m. and outside, it was a biting -1°C. Thank goodness for our Decathlon haul—those thermal pants and jackets turned out to be lifesavers.

While I got ready and layered up, Harshit braved a quick hot shower. We both stepped out into the freezing morning, camera in hand, and caught the sunlight just beginning to stretch across the sky. The car windshield was dusted with snow, so we pulled up a video tutorial and carefully cleared it off before heading out around 6:45.

Despite the cold, the moment we slid into the car, a calm warmth settled over us. The outside world was glowing—snow melting into sunlight, mountains and lakes unfurling in slow-motion beauty. Milford Sound is often called the eighth wonder of the world, and honestly, the road leading there felt no less enchanted. Every curve brought a new backdrop—snow-capped peaks, shimmering water, lush green valleys.

Misty and beautiful winding alpine road to Milford Sound flanked by massive mountains
Scenic route from Te anau to Milford Sound

We managed to find a free parking spot, and thankfully, the walk to the cruise terminal wasn’t far. We resisted every urge to pull over for photos—we’d made a pact to save those for the drive back. For now, all focus was on making it to the cruise on time.

And wow, it delivered. Milford Sound was every bit the marvel it’s hyped up to be. Towering cliffs, graceful waterfalls, penguins skimming past, dolphins dancing in the water. The fiords were otherworldly, more majestic in person than any photo or description could ever do justice. Standing on the deck with a hot coffee in hand, wrapped in layers, surrounded by that raw, silent beauty—it was one of those rare moments that makes you feel small in the best way possible.

Scenic cruise boat floating next to towering cliffs and waterfalls in Milford Sound
Cruise to the 8th wonder of the world (Milford Sound)

After the cruise, we wandered around, soaking in every corner of Milford Sound and clicking what must have been a thousand pictures. No matter how many we took, though, they all felt like pale imitations of the real thing. That landscape lingers with you, even after you step off the boat. Lunch was at the only restaurant around, and for vegetarians, there was just one option on the menu. But honestly, with a view like that, nature had already stolen the show.

We began our drive back toward Te Anau with a little less energy than we had in the morning, but with cameras still clicking. Every turn seemed to offer another chance to remember this road forever. Somewhere between frames, we remembered we’d left our cold drink and food back at the Te Anau hostel. It was on the way anyway, so we made a quick stop to check—but no luck finding them. No big deal; we had new memories to gather.

By evening, we rolled into Queenstown—a town that buzzes with energy yet feels wrapped in magic. Finding free parking was a bit of a puzzle, but we cracked it with some extra walking. That night, we cooked dinner at the hostel and then wandered into town to explore. We were staying close to Patagonia Ice Cream and the famous Fergburger, which felt like living next to temptation itself.

At Patagonia, I asked the receptionist for a flavor recommendation. The moment I mentioned Venice, her eyes lit up—she’d been there too and agreed: best gelatos. And just like that, food became our common language. We picked two Patagonia scoops, and oh my gosh—what a treat. Even months later, I can still taste them. So many choices, so many flavors calling your name. For the first time ever, the cold got to me before the ice cream did. I tucked the rest into the fridge to savor later.

Rich Patagonia ice cream cones in Queenstown
The famous Patagonia ice cream

By the time we strolled back to the hostel, light drizzle had begun to fall—gentle, soothing. After such a full day, we wrapped ourselves in that quiet calm and called it a night.

Beautiful night lights of Queenstown reflecting on the calm lake water
The night-view of Queenstown

Day 5
Glenorchy & Exploring Queenstown

total distance covered = 100 km; total time taken = 1 hr 30 mins

We began the day with plans to visit Glenorchy and later soak in the charms of Queenstown. But, as always, the weather had a say in things. After a cozy breakfast at the hostel, we set off. Queenstown’s beauty made it impossible to drive straight through—every twist in the road offered another photo-worthy view, and we happily gave in to each one.

By the time we reached Glenorchy, the rain had caught up with us. We ducked into a café for a comforting coffee-and-cupcake break, watching the drizzle fall over the sleepy village. We visited the iconic Glenorchy Hut, once a harbor spot and now a postcard-perfect red landmark that added a splash of charm to the grey skies. Honestly, every corner of New Zealand feels like a contender for “favorite place”—picking one is a losing game in the best way.

Scenic lookout points of Sunshine Bay and Mount Creighton on the road to Glenorchy
Sunshine Bay and Mount Creighton, on the way from Queenstown to Glenorchy
Stunning road gateway leading to Glenorchy Paradise
Gateway to Paradise and enjoying the weather
Iconic red Glenorchy Hut and native ducks waddling along the water
Famous hut, birds and duck along the Lake Wakatipu

We drove back to Queenstown and spent the rest of the day meandering through its streets. We treated ourselves to the iconic Ferg Burger and Ferg Gelato (a combo I now fully endorse), picked up souvenirs for family, and learned a little more about what makes NZ tick—wool, honey, jade jewelry, and the kinds of local cookies that vanish far too quickly.

Cozy front facade of Mrs Wooly's General Store in Glenorchy
Mrs Wooly's General Store and their specials
Bustling Fergburger shop queue and eating burgers by the lakeside
Ferg burger shop and its enjoyment along the lake
Delicious fresh cookies and scoops from Mrs Ferg Gelato
Mrs Ferg Gelato and Chocochip cookie

With the weather slowing things down, it turned into a gentle day. We wrapped it up by repacking our bags for the next leg of the trip, hearts full and ready for what tomorrow might bring.

Day 6 & 7
Mount Cook & Tasman Glacier – A Journey into the Stars

total distance covered = 205 km; total time taken = 2 hr 24 mins

Today was going to be a long one, so we started early—chasing the quiet majesty of New Zealand’s highest peak. Mount Cook Village, nestled in one of the country’s dark sky reserves, holds a charm that awakens the soul. On our way, Lake Pukaki stunned us with its surreal clarity—honestly, one of the cleanest lakes I’ve ever seen. We stopped briefly, capturing its mirror-like stillness before continuing our journey. Along the way, we stopped at Lindis Pass which sweeps through golden high country, offering dreamy alpine views that shift with the light. Not far away, the Clay Cliffs of Omarama rise in jagged grandeur—towering, cathedral-like formations sculpted by nature’s hand. Both are must-sees on a South Island road trip. Then we stopped at Lake Pukaki, known for its crystal-clear waters, capturing its surreal beauty in photos.

Dramatic clay cliffs of Omarama rising high and golden Lindis Pass fields
Lindis Pass and Clay Cliffs in Omarama
Striking turquoise glacial waters of Lake Pukaki against dry shoreline
Lake Pukaki

Upon reaching Mount Cook Village around lunchtime, we wasted no time heading straight for a meal, having only had protein bars for breakfast. After refueling, we visited the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre, located inside the Hermitage Hotel—a place we couldn’t stay but had no regrets about missing. Our accommodation at Haka House Hostel turned out to be a fantastic choice, offering a great location and cozy atmosphere.

Snowy majestic peak of Aoraki Mount Cook rising under clear blue sky
Aoraki/Mount Cook
Sir Edmund Hillary statue outside the Hermitage Alpine Center
Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre

With coffee and dessert still warming our hands, we popped into the village museum where we learned about the Tasman Lake hike. It was short enough to finish before sunset, so we swapped into hiking shoes in the car and set off. And then came the moment—the Tasman Glacier stretched before us, quiet and magnificent.

Glacial dining experience lunch at Hermitage Hotel with massive windows facing peaks
Lunch at Hermitage Hotel

The Tasman Glacier – A Moment of Awe

All the talk about glaciers evaporating, about their role in keeping our planet balanced—it hits different when you’re standing there in person. The hike was a bit of a climb, but the view was worth every step. A kind of calm washed over me, the kind you don’t forget. This was one of those moments that stay with you forever, reminding you why travel is worth every effort. The hustle of city life in India felt justified if it led to experiences like this.

Floating grey icebergs in Tasman Glacier lake below steep rocky moraine
The Tasman Glacier

We video-called our parents and siblings from the glacier. My travel puzzle still has one piece missing: my family. I’m not sure if the five of us will ever roam the world together, but until then, I make it a point to call from the most iconic places I reach—so they can be part of the journey too.

Back at Haka House, we cooked dinner and later lay out on the hostel deck, star-gazing under a velvet sky. We spotted planets, constellations, and even the Starlink satellite - tiny sparks in a vast galaxy. We checked the Alpine Centre again for any telescope tours, even though I’d already booked one for Lake Tekapo the next day. Nothing was available, and night driving felt risky, so we stayed in. Harshit was still tempted to see more stars, but with tomorrow’s big trek ahead, I nudged us both toward sleep. We finally drifted off around 1 a.m., wrapped in mountain air and starlight.

Day 8
Hooker Valley Trek & Arrival in Lake Tekapo

total distance covered = 100 km; total time taken = 1 hr 20 mins

The main trek day had arrived! Though we started a bit late, the weather was perfect—a mix of sunshine and wind, making the hike enjoyable. After breakfast and checkout, we set off for the Hooker Valley Trek at 10:30 AM.

The Mueller Hut Trek, Sealy Tarns Trek, and other trails branched out from the same spot, but we chose Hooker Valley—a 3-hour trek that took us 4.5 hours because we couldn’t resist capturing every breathtaking moment. The vastness of the mountains was overwhelming, pulling us deep into nature’s embrace.

Vast stone gravel fields and snowy mountains along Hooker Valley boardwalk
Scenic beauty during Hooker Valley track

Returning happy, tired, and proud of completing our first trek, we still had a two-hour drive ahead to Lake Tekapo. Harshit, somehow, managed to power through, and upon reaching Lake Tekapo Resort, we slept off immediately, exhausted but fulfilled.

Deep green glacial stream and dramatic wooden swing bridge in Hooker Valley
Destination and roads/swing leading to it

A Rainy Evening & Observatory Tour Cancellation

After waking up in the evening, we planned to eat out, but the rain made it tricky. Lake Tekapo is a small village, so we grabbed burgers from a food truck and enjoyed a cozy night indoors, flipping through magazines and watching a movie.

At 11 PM, we got ready for our observatory tour, but doubts lingered—the sky wasn’t clear. Unfortunately, the tour was canceled, leaving us disheartened. With no choice but to accept nature’s unpredictability, we called it a night, hoping for better weather ahead.

Day 9
A Rainy Journey to Fox Glacier

total distance covered = 450 km; total time taken = 5 hr 40 mins

The day started at 9:30 AM, with plans to explore Lake Tekapo’s scenic spots before heading to Fox Glacier. After visiting the Church of the Good Shepherd, the rain set in and didn’t stop until nightfall. We spotted famous Lupins in the gardens of the Church.

Lupins blooming in purple and pink in front of the historic stone Church of the Good Shepherd
Lupins by Church of the Good Shepherd

Day 10
Waiting Out the Rain & Journey to Greymouth

total distance covered = 195 km; total time taken = 2 hr 36 mins

The rain didn’t stop, and unfortunately, we couldn’t see Fox Glacier. To make matters worse, the road to Greymouth was closed due to fallen trees and flooding.

The rain just wouldn’t let up, and with low visibility, we couldn’t see a thing. As if that wasn’t enough, the road to Greymouth was closed due to a fallen tree—completely blocking our way forward. With no option but to wait it out, we reconsidered our plans. We thought about canceling our stay in Greymouth and spending the night at Fox Glacier instead. But one thing was non-negotiable: we had to be in Christchurch by the 11th, no matter what, to catch our flight to Auckland.

We chatted with fellow travelers who were also rerouting their plans—some were aiming for Wanaka, but even that road had been closed off. With nowhere to go, we settled into a local café for lunch and waited, hoping for better news. The rain kept pouring, and time moved slower than usual. Our hostel host kindly let us hang out in the common hall, which gave us a dry place to pause and regroup.

Cozy cafe lunch during rain delay and watching movies in the hybrid hybrid car
When Roads Close, Movies Roll along with pizza and coffee at Cafe

When word finally came that the roads were open, we packed our bags and made a move. But barely half a kilometer in, the police stopped us—it still wasn’t safe to continue. So, we turned back, parked our car, and turned the wait into a quiet moment—we watched a movie from the comfort of our seats, the rain tapping softly on the windshield.

Luckily, by around 3 p.m., the skies began to clear, and the road to Greymouth reopened—our journey could finally continue. We made our way to Greymouth by evening, weary but grateful to have moved forward. After a comforting home-cooked dinner, we took a short walk to stretch our legs. A light drizzle greeted us once again, softly blurring the edges of the day, but somehow it felt different—less of an obstacle, more of a gentle sign-off to an unpredictable chapter.

Sometimes, travel reminds us that plans may change, but every journey has its own story to tell. As the rain drizzled on, the road still stretched ahead, and the adventure continued.

Day 11
Greymouth to Christchurch via Pancake Rocks & Arthur’s Pass

total distance covered = 340 km; total time taken = 4 hr 35 mins

Finally, the sun returned—piercing through after two straight days of rain and setting the perfect tone for our last full day on the South Island. We began with a visit to the remarkable Pancake Rocks in Punakaiki. Science may still be puzzled by their formation, but nature, as always, finds a way to leave us speechless. The layered cliffs, shaped by wind and sea, looked like they belonged to another world.

Extraordinary layered limestone rock cliffs of Pancake Rocks in Punakaiki
Pancake rocks

After lunch, we continued toward Christchurch via Arthur’s Pass—another route famed for its alpine beauty and wild charm. We paused often for photos, trying to capture just a fraction of the South Island’s magic. It felt fitting, somehow, to be leaving this leg of the journey through winding roads framed by towering peaks and sprawling valleys.

Serene vastness and dramatic mountain peaks flanking Arthur's Pass road
Arthur Pass and its serene beauty

Technically, it was our final day here, and the South Island left a lasting impression. It’s sparsely populated, yet that very stillness adds to its untouched appeal. We humans tend to shape nature to suit our comfort, often at the cost of its essence. But here, in these wild landscapes, the beauty remains unedited—and breathtaking.

Panoramic view of mountain ranges, wide yellow valley fields, and clear blue sky
Live Paintings etched in our memories

Back in Christchurch, we made one last stop at Pak’nSave—a full-circle moment from the ritual we’d unknowingly started in Dunedin. Just as we were planning to stretch the day with a visit to Hagley Park, the rain returned, nudging us gently indoors. So we made our way to the apartment and began the quiet task of packing. Everything from the car’s back seat found its way into our luggage—each item a small marker of stories we’ve lived along the way.

Day 12
Farewell South Island, Hello Auckland – A Day of Transitions

It was time to say goodbye to the South Island, and with it, the chapter of serene landscapes, winding roads, and unforgettable memories. Before returning our trusty rental car, we realized it needed a good clean. Harshit found a self-service automatic car wash—something pretty new for us as Indians. Cleaning the car turned into an unexpected little adventure.

I took charge of the inside, using a high-pressure hose and choosing the “fragrance finish.” Then we settled into our seats while the car rolled along an automated belt, getting lathered and rinsed until it sparkled. At the rental return, someone casually complimented my “lovely perfume” and even joked about how lucky Harshit was. That’s when it hit me that I was smelling nice — because of the car fragrance! and I’m definitely not used to receiving compliments like that since I don’t really wear perfumes.

The car return was smooth, and we were dropped off at the airport for our flight to Auckland. Once we landed, we needed to pick up a new rental car. Eventually, our ride arrived, we picked up the car, and made our way to the hostel—where we were pleasantly surprised with a room upgrade for a minimal cost. A small win after a long transition day.

Then came the big decision: Should we drive to Cape Reinga tomorrow? It would mean an 800 km stretch in a single day for Harshit. But the allure of Cape Reinga, where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean and where, according to Māori tradition, souls begin their final journey, was too powerful to resist. After much deliberation, we repacked our black bag for the next three days and committed to the adventure.

With the South Island behind us and the northernmost tip of New Zealand ahead, we drifted off to sleep—ready to chase the horizon once more. 🌊🚗✨

Must-Visit Places in South Island

If you ever find yourself road-tripping through the South Island, here is our ultimate checklist:

  • Milford Sound: Cruise between sheer cliffs, thundering waterfalls, and wild dolphins.
  • Aoraki / Mount Cook: Take the Hooker Valley track or hike to the Tasman Glacier.
  • Lake Tekapo: Stroll among Lupins by the Church of the Good Shepherd and stargaze in the dark sky reserve.
  • Queenstown: Devour a Fergburger, grab Patagonia Gelato, and gaze over Lake Wakatipu.
  • Pancake Rocks: Marvel at the geological layered limestone stacks in Punakaiki.
  • Baldwin Street (Dunedin): Climb the world's steepest street and grab a book at the Lilliput Library.
  • Arthur's Pass: Drive the spectacular alpine highway between the East and West coasts.
  • Stirling Point (Bluff): Stand at the windy, dramatic southernmost point of the South Island.

Join the conversation

Have a question, a tip, or a memory from the same place? Drop a comment below — no signup needed.

Link copied